Yohan Lardy’s muscular Moulin-A-Vent, sourced from hundred-year-old vines on a two-hectare plot considered one of the finest sites in the appellation, shows lush red fruit, cinnamon, and smoke, with a lingering, structured finish. Despite its light body, its rich flavors allow pairings with lamb and game meats. In Moulin-à-Vent high levels of manganese in the soil slow the vines metabolism, lowering yields and making a spicy, concentrated wine. Made from old vines, this is an ageworthy wine but so delicious now that it will hardly get the chance. The cherry fruit is beautiful, Bing shading into black, backed by a fine-grained tannin with a touch of pepper softened by baking spice, with secondary flavors of red cherry, cedar smoke, and savory spice that will make you think more seriously about Beaujolais.