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Sustainably grown on the South Fork, where the ocean breezes moderate the heat and keep the acidity fresh, it’s a dry, textured wine with gorgeous fruit and a high quaffability factor. With peach, apricot, and light cherry fruit in one layer, watermelon, strawberry, and raspberry in another, deeply refreshing. The juice is all free-run, not exposed to skins at all, giving the wine its lovely salmon-bronze color; six weeks on the lees give it a pleasing texture in the mouth.

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