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Let's be real: we commend Piedmontese producers for focusing on native white varietals, but their dalliances with French varietals are a sweet taboo indeed. These Chardonnay vines (90% of the blend) are from the 1980s, and yield a wine that is resplendent with aromas of peach, pear, citrus, and hazelnut. White-vinified Nebbiolo makes up the remaining 10%, and adds a subtle lift. The influence of two years' aging in neutral barrels is evident, but far from overpowering.

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