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Xinomavro's spiritual home Naoussa, northern Greece. The ancient varietal has no known close genetic relatives, but drinkers often compare it with Nebbiolo given its tannic, ageworthy qualities, as well as the cool, hilly terroir to which it is planted. 2012 was a banner year for Kir-Yianni, one of the region's most important producers. Bottle age has further amplified this wine's charm, and here we perceive more kinship with Cornas (and aged Rhone Syrah in general) than the wines of Piedmont. If you like an exceptionally savory, meaty wine with a touch of fruit but a greater abundance of peppery, salty, sanguine qualities, this is mandatory. Pair it with lamb and game meat if you please.

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